On this trip, I wanted Arjun to experience a proper introduction to Irish history including key events like the Great Hunger, emigration to the U.S., and the 1916 Rising. There is so much nuance and context to all of it and visiting a place can create space to appreciate that depth. I created a map to help memorialize the trip and it also invites reflection on the visits.
In Dublin we experienced:
- A convenient hotel stay on Parnell Street (worth noting here because we would later learn who Parnell was by seeing his grave at Glasnevin)
- Walked the cramped corridors at Kilmainham Gaol (Kill-Main-am Jail) which had many stories to tell, including those of paupers jailed for stealing loaves of bread and the martyrdom of 14 leaders from the 1916 Easter Rising
- Rode the tourist-friendly hop-on, hop-off tour to get a lay of the city, including beautiful Phoenix Park, home to the Irish president’s house where “a light is always lefts on for those with Irish heritage who have come home to visit….”
- Toured Trinity College and saw the Book of Kells, the “Brian Boru harp,” and an original copy of the 1916 Easter Rising proclamation
- Strolled through St. Stephen’s Green and happened upon a dramatic statue of Wolfe Tone, an Irish revolutionary who fought for Irish independence in the late 1700s
- Visited Glasnevin Cemetery and learned about Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Tom Clarke, Countess Constance Markievicz, Eamon de Valera, Michael Collins, and more. We also saw a daily, 2:30pm reenactment. of Patrick Pearse reading at Jeremiah O’Donovan Rosa‘s funeral, 108 years to the day it occurred (Aug 1, 1915)
- Visited the EPIC Irish Emigration Experience Museum which is celebrates Irish emigration i.e. all who left Ireland, and how those who did brought Irish culture and values throughout the world. On the way to the museum we happened to pass. by “Famine,” a 1997 bronze sculpture from Dublin sculptor Rowan Gillespie in memory of those forced to emigrate due to the Great Hunger. It was something to behold, seeing these figures from 1847 memorized on a modern day sidewalk.
- Experienced the “1916 Rebellion Walking Tour” with author Lorcan Collins
- Ended our time in Dublin with an evening of live music in a pub just off of Temple Bar
Arjun has enjoyed it all and been a terrific companion. He shares a love of history with Ann and me and asks really thoughtful questions. He has enjoyed learning more about his Irish heritage and some of the key historical figures, especially those who fought for Ireland.
The first leg of this trip has been a lot of walking, learning, and spirited conversation. We did take breaks, like catching a showing of Barbie at the Cineworld. We ate some great food, like the Irish breakfast at Keogh’s Cafe on Trinity Street. We wove in some recent Hollywood historical fiction that Ann shared with Arjun and me: fast-moving plots set against the backdrop of some of the events we are learning about:
- Black 47: a revenge tale about an Irishman who returns from fighting in East Bengal with the British to find his family devastated by the Great Hunger
- The Wind that Shakes the Barley: about the fight for Irish independence and the roots of the Civil War
All in all, a great time and well worth the visit. We can’t wait to come back again.
My Notebook 